Laminate Flooring
Hardwood flooring looks great but is expensive. Laminate flooring has grown in popularity hugely as people want the hardwood look.
Laminate flooring is made up with a number of layers. The core
is a thick, water-resistant material to ensure uniformity and dimensional
stability. A backing paper on the bottom surface of the core to
add stability and help the floor adjust as temperature and humidity
levels in the house change.
The laminate in flooring is not dissimilar the laminates found on kitchen work surfaces. There are differences to take the stress of being walked on day after day. The laminate surface may be multilayered with the addition of resins on top of the laminate, and a heat-resistant base layer. Special bonding processes are used with hardeners are also added which add to the durability.
The range of colours and patterns for laminate flooring is a vast - and the quality is improving all the time. Natural oaks through to dark mahogany and cherry, and then there are a range of different stains on these patterns becoming indistinguishable from real wood floors.
Another recent development in the world of laminate flooring is the simplicity with which they can be laid. The most common is the use of tongue and groove edges to slot each board side by side. There is also a range of joins available off the shelf -transition strips, edge and end mouldings and stair nosing strips.
Further to the boards themselves is the array of foam pads and moisture barriers, adhesives, coloured putties and sealers for damp.
Installing the Laminate Flooring
Laminate flooring installation is a task that the majority of experienced do-it-yourselfers can accomplish. The installation requires time and patience, and some tools and skills relating to carpentry.
The correct preparation and layout is essential for a quality finish. Ensure the subfloor is clean, level, and solid. Foam underlay can cushion the floor and help deaden sound, especially if you have rooms below. If installing on a concrete base a plastic moisture barrier should be laid down. A step that is often forgotten is to leave the flooring in the room in which it will be laid for 48 hours, to acclimatise to the house.
Lay the boards out on the floor without gluing them to get an idea of the layout and fit. The long dimension of the planks should run parallel with the longest dimension of the room. Starting from the longest, straightest wall in the room helps you to get a good straight line to carry across the whole room.
By applying glue to the grooves on each piece the tongue of the next piece is pushed into the groove until the two planks are firmly seated against one another. You can tap the boards together using a tapping block tool or a scrap of flooring.
To save time, three rows of planks can be assembled together. As the flooring is only attached to itself and not the subfloor, three rows enable a wide section of flooring to be made straight at once. The use of 1/4" shims between the planks and wall provide an expansion and contraction joint - the gap will be hidden by your base moulding - and also to wedge the first sections of planking in place while you get going.
Each row of planks should be staggered by at least eight inches to the row preceding it. The installation can be finished off with baseboards or quarter-round moulding to hide the gaps and allow the flooring to move if necessary.
Laminate flooring, including all of the accessories and a complete set of instructions, are available at most floor covering retailers as well as some larger home centres.
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