Flooring
Internal works often require closing sections of the build, and flooring is the largest of them all. With the floors fixed place, lay sub-floor pipes and cables or correct the Anchor points and subsequent rocking of joists will be much harder.
Usually an arrangement is come to where by hatches are left unboarded allow work to continue in the sub-floor void, albeit with some restriction and convenience. The content of this chapter follows standard practice and points out some of the benefits and pitfalls involved. As with all construction projects, an assessment of how and when to install flooring should be taken after careful consideration if your own specific dwelling requirements and following advice from your architect.
Flooring Materials
The majority of flooring is likely to be timber. Chipboard provides an economical alternative to solid timber boards, although it has a fairly short lifespan compared to solid timber. Hardwood planked tongue and groove provides warmth, durability and a beautifully grained surface suitable for all room types. Natural wood matures with age and can be easily maintained. Stripping, sanding and re-lacquering can restore floor boards, but often a rub down and a coat of varnish can bring them back to their former glory.
A large proportion of self builders opt for softwood tongue and groove. This solution is a compromise between the two while providing a good floor and soft grain ensuring adequate fixing to the joists without the timbers splitting. Softwood flooring can be left exposed with a coating of lacquer or carpeted. Vinyl or tiles require plywood being laid down on top of the timbers. Hatches are also easily put in place with additional support has been given to the joists below.
Cables and Piping
Concealing pipes and cabling is usually done by running them in the sub-floor space. Only where they rise from the floor to fittings such as radiators, taps, toilet cisterns and so on are they revealed.
Good access needs to be provided so these installations can be undertaken after the flooring has been fixed down. This involves creating hatches in appropriate and convenient positions. Service hatches will not only be used for the initial laying of piping and cables, but also for repairs, maintenance, alterations and additions in the years to come. Good planning and robust construction of access hatches is essential to ensure the floor remains solid and secure. There is nothing worse than a badly supported afterthought cut through a new floor, as many homeowners will testify.
Service hatches should be established throughout the dwelling. Access for the upper levels can be provided by delaying the construction of ceilings. Self-builders may often consider other system installations such as underfloor heating or computer network or telephone cabling.
Plastic ducting for the cabling will help to protect them and can be attached to the joists. Do keep your cables away from hot pipes though!
Sound Proofing
There are two types of noise generally produced in the average home. Ambient sound is generated within the space of rooms from mechanical and electronic devices, such as hi-fi systems and televisions, and from adults and children talking. Other reverberated noise, such as footsteps, is transferred from floor surfaces through to the rooms below. There are simple and economic solutions to these irritating problems that the self-builder can provide for himself and his family.
Exposed timber flooring may look the part, but keep in mind the noise made when walking on it. Installing acoustic matting between the joists and floorboards can remove some of the vibrations.
Installation
A wise move can be to install a temporary floor. This can be lifted and replaced after plastering, saving your expensive timbers coming to any damage in the internal stages. Plastering can quickly ruin hardwood timbers. Providing adequate protection is an option but not fail safe with the chance that a covering could move or not be in place when work is carried out.
Tongue and groove flooring is a simple process to perform. Having checked that the joists are secure and straight, ground floors can be 'nogged' with flok joist to tighten the joists up. Floor joists are there to support a level floor and an underlining of plasterboard for the ceiling below. Block the outermost floor joists, then cross brace at 1.8m to 2.0m intervals.
Floor-cramps are needed when laying tongue and groove planks. It enables the boards to be firmly tightened into position. Cramps can be bought from a builders' merchant or hired. It is wise to use 50mm floorboard nails to keep the boards from working loose.
Hardwood and softwood timbers should be left to settle and dry out for as long as possible inside the structure, before being fixed into position. Damp or unacclimatised planks will contract excessively, causing unsightly gaps to appear between the timbers.
Hardwood planks will benefit from small pilot holes being drilled to help prevent splitting. Placing the next board alongside, cramp it to the joists, and insert two short pieces of board into the groove of the next board to tighten against it. This will close the second joint tight against the first, whilst protecting the groove from impact damage.Once it is nailed down, you can move onto the next board, working across the floor, closing each joint in turn. The final couple of timbers will need to be dropped into place and forced into position from the wall. Before nailing these down, use a floorboard lever, which is `L' shaped, to pull the joint together as tightly as possible.
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